One of the first signs that summer is on its way is the annual migration run of the salmon. Large schools gather at the southern end of Stanwell Park (and many other beaches) as they nervously make the dash north, seeking to avoid predators such as dolphins, seals, sharks and, of course, humans.

The Australian salmon (Arripis trutta) is no relation to its better-known namesake found in supermarkets and restaurants all over the country. It carries the name ‘salmon’ because it looks like its European namesake (Atlantic salmon – Salmo salar). However, it is not even a distant cousin in taxonomic terms.

Australian salmon has never been highly valued as a food fish. Many years ago, Australians preferred fish that had a very mild flavour and salmon tastes like, well, fish. As a result fishermen did not look after it and the quality suffered, so people turned their noses up even more. There was a cannery in Eden many years ago, but this closed and most now goes for bait, although many different ethnic groups make use of it.

However, properly looked after (killed quickly and iced) Australian salmon is a good tasting fish. I make a ceviche (raw pieces marinated in lime juice) when I catch one and it also smokes well. I have spoken to chefs who have used it for sashimi, but sourcing well-handled fish is a challenge.

Viewed from Bald Hill the schools look like black clouds. While commonly called ‘bait balls’, the salmon themselves are also fierce predators, eating a wide variety of small fish such as sprats, anchovies and sardines. The schools change in shape, sometimes split and then rejoin. They are quite mesmerising to watch.

Maybe we should celebrate the arrival of the salmon each year. They connect the Illawarra with the South Coast and Sydney Metro. They also connect the Yuin, Dharawal and Eora nations, and maybe more.

'Hello Fish' columnist Duncan Leadbitter writes regular snorkelling and diving articles for the Flame, follow his adventures on YouTube