Janice Creenaune meets Donna Brown who, at 59, runs her own business and remains as passionate as ever about surfing.
Donna is passionate about her surfing. She was never going to give up on her dream to follow the ‘breaks’, both locally in the Northern Illawarra and around the world, despite the numerous challenges she has faced.
After growing up in Sydney, the water was embedded in Donna’s psyche. Holidays on the South Coast of NSW, with encouragement from her brother, cemented her addiction.
“My father was a lifesaver and we all loved the beach. After moving to Bondi with my husband (who was another avid surfer), I renewed my yearning. But it was intimidating for women surfers at this time and local territorialism was rampant.”
At 40, Donna attended a Women’s Surfing Day Out and renewed her ambitions.
“Fiona Hunt from Essential Surf instantly opened my world to surfing and after a couple of lessons I was completely hooked.
“Being in the water was always special, but in this area, the northern Illawarra in particular. It is not only the ocean, but that escarpment when you turn around. It is truly magnificent from the ocean perspective. It is imposing and it, too, changes all the time.”
Donna started on a second-hand soft-top surfboard, but now has a quiver of boards.
“My surfing buddies and I have developed life-long friendships and have surfed in Bali, Taiwan, the Maldives, the North and South Coast of NSW. We are like-minded women in age and outlook. We have been lucky enough to engage Pam Burridge for lessons in Bendalong. Our confidence grew exponentially.”
Donna and her friends have tackled breaks where they experienced dangerous conditions, yet it has not impacted their passion for surfing.
“Once, in Bali, years ago, we didn’t have the local break knowledge and we were more inexperienced at the time. Some serious injuries were developed by some of us, and though our resolve to continue surfing has not waned, we did learn from our experiences.
“We now study the conditions much more thoroughly and watch for important tidal changes, such as we experienced in Taiwan. We know
what we experienced was dangerous, but we remain resilient.
“And as we have aged, none of us have given up. Our mantra remains: enjoy it while you can.”
In its 31st year of operation, the Bellambi Layback Longboarders Yearly Club Championship: C Grade section was won by Donna. While this success is remarkable – it’s only the second time in 30 years a woman has won – what is even more remarkable is the work it took her to get there.
“It was extremely territorial to begin with a few years ago, and the club tried many different approaches to allow women to participate
on ‘just terms’.
“Some failed, but after years of trying different approaches and negotiating, the club culture began to change and we understood we all needed to work together.
“We persisted and inclusivity remains important. We all learn from each other, and we all teach each other.
“Our club is not about ability as such, but respect, communication and surf etiquette. I continue to love the social part of the club.”
Donna remains an active community member and is a force in action when she sees a need for change. Whether it be as a member of Save Thirroul Village, Save Coledale RSL or in the Winter Classic Invitational for Longboards 2023, which is open to all comers and a fundraiser for the “Laybacks” and for charities, Donna gives her all to the occasion, all while running her own business.
It is inspirational for many of us.
Janice Creenaune is a volunteer for PKD (Polycystic Kidney Disease) Foundation Australia. Email janicecreenaune@gmail.com for further information.
