Firstly, my definition of a hot cross bun, and a warning – it’s traditional. A super fresh, chewy, spiced, slightly – but not too – sweet, with (minimal) sultanas, raisins or currants, yeasted bready bun with signature cross. Absolutely no orange peel within cooee and it goes without saying that there’s no sign of choc chips. Don’t get me started on sticky toffee and caramel versions. And the burger sauce ones are just plain wrong.
I am so traditional when it comes to hot cross buns that I operate within a strict two-week window. I eat them only the week before, during and the week after Easter – not from just after Christmas for the next three months like the supermarkets think should be the case.
The history of the hot cross bun and its association with Easter is somewhat murky. The Saxons, Druids, Phoenicians, Egyptians, Greek and Romans ate sacred buns with crosses in honour of goddesses such as Eostre (the origin of the term Easter) and Diana. The cross represents the four phases of the moon or the four seasons, and the bun – rebirth after winter.
The story goes that, in the 14th century, an English monk was the first to bake buns by mixing yeast with cinnamon, marked with a cross. He distributed them to the local poor on Good Friday. The well-known children’s rhyme “one a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns” was first published in the London Chronicle in 1767. It is certainly a well-established tradition that Australians have been happy to embrace.
The buns are best served on the day of baking. If they are more than a day or two old, they can be lightly toasted under the griller, or cut side down in a frying pan or sandwich press. The crowning glory of the perfect hot cross bun is great butter. Try Pepe Saya or Meander Valley cultured butter for a special treat. If you need a double sugar hit, drizzle with good quality honey.
A Choice article covered the results of a blind tasting of Coles, Woolworths, Aldi and Bakers Delight hot cross buns. The traditional buns of the two major supermarkets were both recommended. My preference, however, is to eat fewer buns of better quality, such as the ones in this article.
One of my favourite food writers, Nagi from RecipeTin Eats, laments that the grocery store buns are full of preservatives. Have a look at the ingredients list and you’ll find it's longer than it needs to be and includes items identified by numbers.
Nagi’s recipe has all the information you need to make your own hot cross buns if you have the time and the inclination. There are detailed instructions, including photos and videos, explanations of the different kinds of yeast and a no-knead version. Though it’s easiest if you have a stand mixer. Even if you are a novice, your buns will be better than the supermarket ones.
